CHER’S SECOND SHOW: Shows rarely — if ever? — open with raucous applause.
But most shows don’t start with Cher. That was the case Saturday night at the Ann Demeulemeester show, when the iconic singer made an entrance just before the first models hit the runway.
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The whole room had been seated, silent and still for several minutes in anticipation of her imminent arrival. When she made her entrance in a black coat and grand, swooping hat, the audience erupted into applause.
Cher was on hand to support Demeulemeester’s return to the runway after over two years away, and the designer showed a monochrome and meditative collection of jackets, flowing trousers, tucked dresses and her signature elevated white cotton shirts.
After the show Cher told WWD that she has long been a fan of the brand. In fact, she’s worn Demeulemeester on several red carpets.
“I loved it,“ she said. “I’ve been wearing her things forever. They’re right for me, that’s what I love about them.”
Cher has been the talk of the town since she made an appearance on the Balmain runway last week. As for taking to the soccer stadium for her historic walk, she brushed it off like a pro.
“I’ve been walking on a stage for ever so it was just fun,” she said. Speaking of becoming friends with Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing, she added: “I really like him, and there’s a man’s jacket that I really want.”
She’s been an icon for more than five decades, but doesn’t mull over past styles. In her zen manner, she lives in the moment. “I don’t think of it, truthfully. Each thing is a thing and each moment is a moment and when it’s gone, it’s gone. My mother still looks at old pictures though.”
Before the show, Halsey sat next to the spot reserved for Cher. She was fangirling a little bit, like the rest of the audience.
“I can’t believe it,” she said of her seat. “The reason I was zoning out is that I’m going over and over in my head what I’m gonna say to her. I’ll probably come up with something amazing and then when I see her I’ll go ‘I love you so much’ and won’t have the courage to say anything else after that. Her just being here this week is iconic.”
The singer celebrated her birthday Sept. 29 and decided to spend it in Paris. “Every year it falls right on my birthday. So you know, every year I have to make the decision — am I going on a tropical vacation or to fashion week? And this year I was like, it’s fashion week,” she said.
To celebrate she went out to dinner and took a group of friends to the Crazy Horse cabaret. “They’ve never been and I was like this is a Parisian classic, so you have to see it. I’ve seen the show a bunch of times, but I was like, ‘I just want to see your reactions.’”
The new mom just finished her “Love and Power” tour, and had been vocal on social media about the toll it took on her.
“Now I’m feeling really good,” she said. “Things are slowing down for me and I’m excited to go home and spend some time with my son and, you know, just do holiday things with the baby.” — RHONDA RICHFORD
Among them Erykah Badu, who swept in looking regal in a floor-length marabout trimmed coat with a matching high hat. It made her easy to spot when she sprang from her seat to capture the finale and applaud Pierpaolo Piccioli’s spring collection.
Florence Pugh also was team pink, although she went for a softer hue with a high neck mini number with a chain design.
Others took a cue from the all-black invitation for their looks, led by Naomi Campbell in a roomy tailored jacket and crisp white shirt with a plume of marabout feathers replacing a tie.
PP Pink may have become a key color over the last few months but “black and white is timeless too,” said Ashley Park, posing in her daring mid-riff ensemble as model Cindy Bruna arrived wrapped in a voluminous black textured peacoat.
Turns out everyone had the right color on themselves, one way or another.
“You’ll see [why],” teased Zendaya with a laugh when asked which team she was on. Though her coat featured jet-black beading, a hint was hidden underneath. Long-term stylist Law Roach, next to her, leaned over to stage whisper: “It’s brown, darling.”
Others still went their own way, like the recently wed Nicola and Brooklyn Peltz-Beckham. She was wearing a translucent embroidered top and blue denim, while her husband had slipped a checked jacket over his T-shirt and jeans outfit.
The pair were treating their Parisian stay as an extension of their honeymoon, especially since members of both families were in town, including Victoria Beckham, who made her debut in Paris on Friday.
“We’re kidnapping as many family members as we can….It’s my brother’s birthday today,” Peltz said, revealing they would be celebrating with a dinner later in the evening. But after this, it would be back to work for both spouses.
While Beckham couldn’t share details on the show, Peltz was excited about finishing the postproduction of “Lola James,” her debut as a director in the film she authored and stars in, “based on people in [her] life.”
“It’s like my baby, a very intense process and I feel very vulnerable but very excited to share it with you,” she said, as Beckham declared it “so good — not just because she’s my wife.” — LILY TEMPLETON
EMMA, THE MUSE: Designer Shoe Warehouse has a new muse.
Actress Emma Roberts’ face (and feet) can now be found in a new collection and campaign for DSW’s owned brand Crown Vintage.
Roberts will lend her fashion sense by collaborating on the brand’s curation and design for the spring, summer and fall 2023 seasons. The collections will feature items such as loafers, boots and accessories.
“I gravitated to the Crown Vintage brand because it embraces and encourages individuality,” Roberts said. “I live in the shoes, everything from loafers to boots. They’re so comfy and chic, and I love a place where I can get one of everything.”
The footwear and accessories retailer launched its Crown Vintage brand — which consists of shoes, accessories and handbags across men, women and children — in 2008. DSW is hoping the partnership with Roberts, as well as additional celebrities and influencers in the future, will help the firm tap into a younger demographic while growing awareness of its own brands. Crown Vintage’s makeover also includes an updated logo and branding.
“Crown Vintage is about authenticity. We identify with the free-spirited, casually chic customer,” said Julie Roy, senior vice president and chief marketing officer at DSW. “Our customer looks to us for craftsmanship and quality that is also trend-driven and feminine. She covets items she can wear again and again until they are well-loved and worn in.”
The Crown Vintage x Emma Roberts campaign, which was shot in Los Angeles, California, launches Monday on dsw.com and in all 500 stores in the U.S. All styles selected and worn by Roberts are priced under $150.
DSW, which was founded in 1991, has previously partnered with Jennifer Lopez and Mindy Kaling for campaigns and collections. In addition to its e-commerce shop, DSW has nearly 550 locations across the U.S. and Canada. — KELLIE ELL
LONGORIA AND VICTORIA: Eva Longoria is having a great fashion week so far. She started by attending longtime friend Victoria Beckham’s show Friday evening, and will hit the runway herself Sunday night. In between, she took in the Elie Saab show at Palais de Tokyo.
“It couldn’t have gone any better. I mean, the reviews are amazing,” she told WWD of sitting front row at Beckham’s show. “She was crying and I was crying because I was like, ‘Oh my god,’” she said of the rounds of applause.
“It meant so much to her to do well in Paris. And it was just a moment in her career and I think it was her best show ever,” she said.
The two have been friends for more than 15 years, when the designer who was living in Los Angeles had experimented with her VB Rocks jean line and had yet to launch her Victoria Beckham brand. “I remember when she was talking about starting a line — like it was a dream. And now she’s so accomplished in this space. So I’m definitely a proud, proud friend.”
Longoria made the trip to Paris one month into her six-month shoot in Spain on her new Apple TV+ bilingual drama “Land of Women.” She’s executive producing under her Unbelievable Entertainment banner and is shooting in the Spanish wine country.
But it’s her long-running work as a spokesperson for L’Oréal that brought her to Paris, where she will walk in the beauty brand’s show Sunday night at the city’s École Militaire.
Longoria may be used to taking charge behind the camera with her producing duties, but taking to the catwalk can still give her a case of nerves.
“It’s not my medium, I’m just a dumb actor,” she joked. “I’m not a model, so it’s definitely nerve-wracking. And there are always so many people at that show, it’s always one of the biggest shows, and that makes it even more nerve-wracking.” Longoria will walk alongside fellow face Andie MacDowell in the courtyard of the historical barracks.
She made her way to the Elie Saab show fresh from a fitting for that runway show. Though she was mum on who the designer will be — “a French one” — she praised the setting.
“I love that they chose the military academy,” she said. “That is something historically so masculine, and to put a feminist brand in there — it’s pretty bold.” — R.R.
DIOR’S HONOR: Dior was honored at the Trophée Forbes and OniriQ ceremony Friday night at Paris’ Georges V hotel. It was the inaugural awards from Forbes France, created to honor young designers. Dior’s nod was in the environmental sphere, receiving the Forbes Green Ecological Transition Prize for its capsule collaboration with Parley for the Oceans as well as the brand’s overall sustainability targets set out by the Dior in Green program.
With the growing awareness that much of our plastic ends up in the ocean and is killing marine life, Parley for the Oceans was founded by former brand and marketing man Cyrill Gutsch with the belief that “purpose is the new luxury.” The group espouses the AIR Strategy: Avoid, Intercept and Redesign, specifically for ocean plastic, and aims to get the fashion industry involved.
Starting in 2019, Dior artistic director of men’s Kim Jones worked with Parley on a joint research project to create new yarns from plastic garbage and fishing gear collected from beaches in the Maldives, Dominican Republic and Sri Lanka. One result was a recycled polyester that was used in the beachwear capsule, released last April as the first of an annual drop.
Kat Graham joined guests including Thylane Blondeau, Baptiste Giabiconi, French pop star Louisy Joseph and French TV host Agathe Auproux seated at long tables in the hotel’s grand ballroom. The event was part of Le Grand Dîner and the Forbes Fashion Week Awards, an annual event for fashion professionals during the week. — R.R.
POPPING UP IN PARIS: Telegraphing the craft and preciousness of its handbags, Milan-based Serapian, known for its hand-braided leather technique, is opening a long-running pop-up store in Paris, on Rue de la Paix, a stone’s throw from jewelers’ favorite Place Vendôme.
The store marks the first retail presence of the leather goods specialist owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont in France. It opens Monday and will remain in place through the end of March 2023.
“It is a statement for our maison to open its doors in the prestigious Place Vendôme, a place where connoisseurs come to appreciate the finest jewelry, timepieces…and now also handcrafted leather goods,” said Maxime Bohé, the brand’s business strategy marketing and communication director.
Inspired by the brand’s Milanese headquarters housed inside the storied Villa Mozart, the 1,614-square-foot, seven-window unit spanning two floors is decked in wooden flooring, marble details in different nuances and golden displays.
It is filled with signature design pieces, including poufs and stools by the Milanese design collective Azucena; velvet armchairs part of the Marta Sala Éditions collection, as well as, among others, lamps, a side table and tapestry borrowed from the Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte, which is also part of the Richemont stable.
In keeping with its celebration of handicraft, a special corner of the boutique will be dedicated to the house’s bespoke service introduced in 2020.
Customers will be able to select from among 50 different lambskin options and have their bag custom-made. A Mosaico Wall of the leather tiles defines the bespoke area, in nods to the hand-braided motif of the same name invented by founder Stefano Serapian.
“Entering our new boutique is like a Milanese journey where guests can enjoy all facets of the ‘Mestieri d’Arte,’ such as design and art pieces, Serapian’s creations as well as a master artisan demonstrating live our signature Mosaico craft. This opening reinforces the strong development our Maison is experiencing globally,” Bohé offered.
Marking the opening, the brand has mounted an exhibition by photographer and friend of the house Guido Taroni, who portrayed Milan personalities in their private lives.
The Paris pop-up, to be celebrated with a cocktail reception Monday during Paris Fashion Week, flanks the eight existing retail units, which include banners on Milan’s tony Via Spiga, Rome and at Tokyo’s Ginza Six, among others.
The brand counts five retailers in France, including Paris’ Le Bon Marchè, La Réserve in Ramatuelle and Rainbow in Bordeaux.
Founded in 1928, the artisanal accessories company has been controlled by Compagnie Financière Richemont since 2017. — MARTINO CARRERA
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