Yahoo Movies Talking on-screen style with ‘Yellowstone’ costume designer, Johnetta Boone
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The hotly anticipated fifth season of Yellowstone has finally premiered, and with it, answers to the questions left at the end of season four. The Paramount drama—now officially the most-watched series on cable—follows the Dutton family as they maintain the largest cattle ranch in Montana, and explores the nuances of power, family dynamics, wealth and even politics. While the show is famous for its on-screen drama and influence from film westerns, we love the series for its authentic portrayal of western style.
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Under the careful eye of costume designer Johnetta Boone, the clothes worn by the Dutton family—and many other pivotal characters—have made a major impact on how viewers understand and interpret these characters. We chatted with Boone about the inspiration behind the Yellowstone costumes, the critical importance of staying true to the lived experience of cowboys with her design work, and the style lessons to be learned through watching the series.
Recreating an “authentic” Yellowstone
Boone joined Yellowstone in its second season, having inherited the wardrobe of the show’s first costume designer, Ruth E. Carter (the Oscar-nominated designer behind the costumes of the Black Panther films). Since then, Boone has been instrumental in shaping both great and small shifts in each character’s wardrobe. However, one thing has always remained true—for Boone, the key to a convincing costume is authenticity. “It’s important for me to keep everything very authentic regionally, and to make sure that everyone is represented accurately,” she says. In order to understand what fashion looks like in the midwest, she observed it in person. “Art imitates life, so why not use your environment as your research?”
This meant that Boone, a Washington, DC-area resident, has spent considerable time in Montana businesses, grocery stores, casinos and even police departments to better understand the fashions of the residents. “I want to become part of the community so I’m not looked upon as an outsider coming in to mimic what they’re doing,” she says. From there, Boone takes a few creative liberties in order to further the narrative of the series, and to put her own stamp on the style choices of certain characters.
Outfitting John Dutton in the best of Americana
As the patriarch of the Dutton Family, John Dutton (played by Kevin Costner) has seen considerable challenges over the first four seasons of the series. But in season five, he finds himself at the beginning of a new journey as the Governor of Montana. Boone responded to these shifts by incorporating more business wear into the character’s wardrobe: “Whereas before it was all livestock agencies, which was just cowboys with a badge in their regular attire, now JD is a cowboy, in a suit, with a badge.” The change in wardrobe represents a shift in power among the show’s central protagonist—a display of power that is evident even when John isn’t dressed in his business suit.
Boone looks toward historic American menswear and fashion labels to fill out the characters’ wardrobes. “Of course, there are brands that are very much a part of the look," she says, "But I wouldn’t take the brand’s total identity to create a look for the character. For instance, JD wears Ralph Lauren and brands like Schaefer Outfitters that have been part of the Western culture for decades.” Indeed, the series is a love letter to western clothing traditions, and John Dutton’s costumes might be the most carefully considered of the bunch.
To add some classic John Dutton-inspired style to your own wardrobe, start by buying well-made basics in versatile and neutral colors. Filson’s Ridgeway Fleece Vest is a lightweight piece that’s designed for layering over dress shirts and hoodies, or worn under a jacket as an insulating layer when the temperatures drop. The Ridgeway vest is available in classic Olive Drab and vibrant Steelhead Red shades in men’s sizes XS to XXXL.
To complete your JD-inspired look, wear the vest over a quintessential country classic: the chambray shirt. Not to be confused with a denim shirt (which is made from a different weave and is generally heavyweight and more durable), a chambray shirt is well-suited to warmer weather and typically comes in shades of blue that will match anything you pair it with. We love the Chambray Workwear Long Sleeve Shirt from Lucky Brand because of its even-hued indigo color, soft and sturdy cotton-hemp blend and it’s classic styling. Shop the shirt in two colors in men’s sizes S to 2X.
As we’ve seen time and time again on Yellowstone, you can never underestimate the power of a well-tailored suit. This black Yachter Suit Jacket from Banana Republic has a modern fit that is slim without being too skinny, and features a stylish notch lapel and high armholes to offer a more custom fit. The suit comes in black in men’s sizes 36 short to 48 long. Don’t forget the separate Yachter Suit Trouser to complete the look.
Dressing Beth Dutton with a worldly flair
When it comes to dressing the women characters of Yellowstone, especially John’s daughter Beth—Boone looks beyond the confines of midwestern American style. That could have something to do with actress Kelly Reilly’s English background. “I love Beth’s look,” says Boone when asked which of the series’ costumes is her favorite. “It’s a collaboration because [Reilly] is British, and she brings a lot to the table. I love her look because I get to bring in some really strong stylistic pieces that work well for her character. She wears everything beautifully, so it’s great.”
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Indeed, Beth Dutton has one of the most distinctive style viewpoints on the series. As the daughter of one of the most powerful men in Montana, she’s seen dressed in jeans and flowing printed blouses as much as she is in high-style outfits that feature luxurious faux furs and clinging bodycon dresses. Some of Beth’s most memorable looks are now shoppable from the comfort of your own home. Boone has worked with new immersive shopping platform Shop the Scenes to connect consumers to authentic garments, accessories, and home goods from the series.
We don’t blame you for wanting to recreate the Beth Dutton look. And there’s no better place to start than with the Westward 626 High Rise Bootcut Jeans from one of the most iconic American denim brands—Wrangler. This classic style features a high waist and a subtle flared leg that will sit just right over a pair of boots. Best of all, these jeans are available in 10 washes, leaving you with a pair for every occasion. Shop the style in women’s waist sizes 24 to 35.
We can’t get enough of Beth’s printed dresses. They somehow feel equal parts American west and French countryside. To borrow a page from Dutton’s book, consider the Antik Batik Bell-Sleeve V-Neck Dress. With a vibrant floral print and a trendy midi length, this dress pairs beautifully with a pair of tall boots, and the deep v-neck is designed to show off a simple necklace. Shop the Bell-Sleeve V-Neck Dress in women’s sizes XS to L at Anthropologie.
If we could steal just one thing from Beth Dutton’s wardrobe, it would have to be one of her dramatic and supremely stylish fur coats. When she weds Rip during an emotional moment in the season 4 finale, she wears a striking white faux fur coat over a gold minidress and boots. The look had all the drama, style, and sass that we’ve come to expect from this powerhouse character. Want to recreate the look for yourself? Majorelle’s Tatiana Faux Fur Coat recreates the look of an arctic fox fur and is available in women’s sizes XXS to XL.
Designing a fashion-forward American midwest
Speaking of the show’s writer and creator Taylor Sheridan, Boone says that Sheridan doesn’t want actors to look as though they are portraying a character. “He wants the audience to believe that [the actors] actually are who their characters name is on screen,” recalls Boone. The best way to achieve that seamless integration is to work with the actors to develop their wardrobes. Carefully tailoring ready-to-wear clothes, or customizing jeans and dresses to accommodate Western boots is par for the course.
Boone’s deep fashion research of the American midwest meant that she learned a lot about western dress traditions. She leaned heavily into historically important denim brands like Wrangler and Levi’s in the creation of her costumes. When one detail-oriented fan suggested that “cowboys don’t wear Levi’s,” Boone was quick to point out that Levi Strauss is credited with making the very first pair of blue jeans. “Levi’s has been in the game since 1873. There was no denim before Levi’s, so cowboys absolutely wore Levi’s. Not only did they wear Levi’s in the early frontier, but they wear them now.”
Outfitting the entire cast, from central to background figures, was an enjoyable experience for Boone. “I love all of the cowboys because each one is absolutely different, and they allow me the opportunity to have a little bit of diversity,” she says. Though they all follow the same basic formula–jeans, boots, cowboy hat, shirt and belt—Boone has managed to outfit every on-screen figure with a distinctive look that respects her careful research.
The Yellowstone look is incomplete without its cowboy hats. If you want to cop the look for yourself, we suggest going to the gold standard for cowboy hats: Stetson. Stetson was founded in 1865, and quickly become the world’s largest and most respected hat maker. Their hats became so ubiquitous that even today, some people use the term cowboy hat and Stetson interchangeably.
Stetson is the definition of an American heritage brand, and they still produce some of the highest quality headwear available. We love the Rawlins Cowboy Hat for its structured wool felt, pinched crown and braided leather band with Stetson’s signature pin.
For a pair of Wrangler jeans that are almost universally loved, look no further than the Wrangler Authentics Men’s Classic 5-Pocket Cotton Relaxed Fit Jean. These jeans have a near-perfect 5-star rating with over 75,000 reviews (that’s not a typo). Fans of the jeans praise how durable they are, and mention how they don’t shrink when laundered. Shop the style in men’s sizes 28W x 30L to 60W x 32L in eight classic washes.
Every cowboy needs protection from the elements for those long days outside. For chilly mornings on the ranch, we love the Hyder Quilted Jac-Shirt from another American heritage brand: Filson. The jacket is heavyweight, durable and made exceptionally well. Best of all, the waxed exterior makes it water-resistant, and the jacket also has an insulated layer that makes this coat quite warm. We loved the Marsh Olive colorway when we tested the jacket. Shop the Hyder Quilted Jac-Shirt in men’s sizes XS to XXL Long in two colors.
Style lessons to learn from Yellowstone
While costuming Yellowstone, it was essential to Boone to nail the wardrobes of the Native American and indigenous actors on the series. How did she do it? By offering them a seat at the table. “It’s all about their voices being heard. A lot of the time working with indigenous characters, I rely on them sharing their experiences,” says Boone of the exchange of knowledge and stories that takes place behind the scenes.
Actor Mo Brings Plenty plays Mo–Thomas Rainwater’s driver and assistant–on Yellowstone. More importantly, he serves as a technical consultant for the series. His lived experience as a member of the Lakota tribe has not only informed which garments and accessories Boone selects, but also brings the work of indigenous and native designers to the screen. Indeed, Boone has worked with indigenous peoples to bring their handcrafted garments and accessories to the series.
It’s that sense of profound respect for the past that Johnetta Boone claims is the style lesson to be learned from watching Yellowstone. “It’s great to have some trendy things,” she says, “but at the end of the day, the trend comes from what has already been created. There are very few things that haven’t been created, but there’s so many ways for you to contribute back to your communities, even with your style. You can still reach back and add those elements in with your current style.” Personal style is often a journey, not a destination. And Boone’s thoughtful words remind us that sometimes in order to move forward, you have to look back.
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This article originally appeared on Reviewed: Style tips from Paramount’s ‘Yellowstone’ costume designer Johnetta Boone
