Steven Passaro wanted to evoke the feeling of hypersensibility in his collection, titled “We Feel Things They’ll Never Feel,” a phrase that he’d been mulling over since he spotted it scrawled in London’s subway.
Tailoring forms the bedrock of his label, but in an earlier interview, Passaro said he wanted to apply it to men’s wear in a way that “ultimately negates the notion of gender” in a garment. The fall video offered a glimpse into the 3D process that he uses to design these garments and telegraphed a sense of ease owing to details like godets in the side of a coat that made it flare when in motion.
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Among the standouts were a bright red coat that flowed out into a cape at the back; a suit with pockets tucked in continuation of the lapels on the jacket and pseudo-cargo pants; shirts with their structure or an undershirt figured as top-stitching, or trompe-l’oeil trousers that looked like jeans tucked into leather boots.
His physical presentation offered a closer look at these experiments in splicing several garments together or merging different layers of traditional men’s wear into a single piece. While the former made for too-busy pieces, the latter looked intriguing and like a direction worth pursuing.
Launch Gallery: Steven Passaro Men's Fall 2022