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Sean Suen Men’s Fall 2022

Sean Suen is undergoing transformation this season. The Beijing-based designer, known for sharp suiting that often has a bit of a tough edge, has added a softer touch to his latest collection.

Such cocooning reflects the designer’s own pensive mood, the roller coaster of emotions, disconnection and loneliness he experienced during periods of various restrictions throughout the ever-changing COVID-19 crisis. His emotional state, and creating in a vacuum, led to this collection being a “big leap” from the last, the designer told WWD.

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Still, Suen’s clever reinterpretation of traditional Chinese garments remained a foundation of the collection. He opened with cozy cream knits, soft sweaters and scarves draped around the body, evoking a kasaya. Padded jackets were revisited and given volume, first in wool herringbone and later in black leather. Wide shoulders dominated an expanded silhouette on slouchy suits and coats, while some were exaggerated enough to be interpreted as armor. Here he also plays with proportion, sleeves so long fists disappear, but short tunics bear a bit of thigh.

From the initial feeling of anxiety to the extreme paranoia after self isolation, these are the true sense of solitude we feel from all around us,” he said. “Finally, we must calm down and move on, because we can’t go back.”

Suen moves through a cascade of muted colors, from the opening creams through grays, beiges and browns before finally resting on black, what feels like a triumphant return to form for the inventive designer.

Launch Gallery: Sean Suen Men's Fall 2022

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