Ruohan RTW Spring 2024

In a languid and reflective spring show, Ruohan Nie continued a three-part narrative arc begun last season and set to conclude next fall on how the world is perceived.

The designer staged a series of small runway shows at the Palais de Tokyo, with drapes hanging from the ceiling heightening the meditative vibe of her procession of longline silhouettes.

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For this second chapter, Nie focused on the line. “Points form lines [which then] form forms,” she explained backstage, drawing a comparison with her design process that goes the other way, from the macro scale of concept to the detail level.

This informed every aspect of her lineup, from the very vertical proportions of dusters, flowing trousers and curve-skimming dresses to different types of pleats and crinkly textures reminiscent of waves.

Good ideas and interesting directions abounded, including summer-weight knitwear separates and dressier looks that Nie said signaled her brand’s readiness to “level up.”

But the profusion of long and loose drapes lacked definition when un-anchored by tailoring, and as a whole, failed to coalesce into a cohesive ensemble.

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Launch Gallery: Ruohan RTW Spring 2024

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