Rui Zhou presented her spring 2024 collection in a set where daily objects were covered in stretchy fabrics with models walking randomly at first and later in circles, mimicking how the order was born out of chaos in nature, as well as in one’s mind.
In the case of Zhou, she is gradually forming an order that can scale the brand beyond the hype she got from dressing pop idols like Dua Lipa, Olivia Rodrigo and Jennie from Blackpink.
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She said she has learned a lot from her recent collaboration with Victoria’s Secret. Not only did she make thin and delicate bra straps a defining feature of the spring 2024 season, she also took wearability more seriously.
Instead of beads, she used straps to construct her tactile knitted body suits, which Zhou believes makes the pieces more gender-neutral, as the beads can be “a little bit too feminine. It offers a different dynamic. The straps make the pieces look more clean, straight and powerful,” Zhou said backstage.
She paired her sultry knits with cropped shirts, tennis skirts, tailored jackets, and sweeping gowns, building a more comprehensive wardrobe.
It’s not the only effort she made to scale the brand. The designer added pieces made with sportswear fabric, which are durable enough for workouts and stylish enough to wear to a party. Zhou said this is a result of her earlier collaboration with Adidas on a capsule for the training line.
Launch Gallery: Rui RTW Spring 2024
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