No. 21 RTW Spring 2024

He’d been wanting to do it for years and, finally, this was the season that Alessandro Dell’Acqua dedicated a collection to his hometown of Naples.

Dell’Acqua looked at his city from a variety of angles, “the aristocrats, the common people, the theatricality of weddings, funerals, baptisms, and the Neapolitan-ness of it all,” he said. The designer also took inspiration from the Neapolitan author Elena Ferrante’s latest novel, “The Lying Life of Adults.”

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The result was a powerful collection packed with classic shapes, tonal colors, and a blend of the sexy and austere.

Short, white A-line dresses and matching coats had a sweet ’60s feel, as did a lineup of pencil skirts, slipdresses and flat shoes iced with large, clear sequins. Prim sweater jackets; dresses made from white lace and sheer tulle, and hairbands with short veils added a demure, dignified air.

There was also a darker, more mysterious side that nodded to the postwar film “La Ciociara,” in the shape of a sheer black dress partially unzipped at the back; a sequin-covered trench layered over a black bra and underpants, and dark tops with white collars that nodded to the nunnery.

What took him so long? Dell’Acqua loves his native city, and was able to draw so much beauty from its glory — and chaos. Hopefully, he’s already planning the sequel.

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Launch Gallery: No. 21 RTW Spring 2024

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