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Mowalola's SS23 Is a Criminal Return to the Runway

U.K.-based Nigerian designer Mowalola debuted her Spring Summer 2023 collection at Paris Fashion Week Men's after a three-year hiatus. Dubbed "Burglarwear," the collection draws inspiration from the act of stealing and seeks to remind us that being a thief is nothing more than a state of mind.

Intrigued by what it takes to steal, the runway sees Mowalola showcasing characters like white-collar bankers, pastors and the internet scammers of Lagos (commonly known as "Yahoo boys") all sharing a common ground. Unified by a lack of remorse in their actions, the characters display a somewhat confident pride in taking what's theirs, evident in their dress.

Black leather is merged with cut-outs mimicking the Regina George-style tank top from Mean Girls, while religious dresses don crucifixes and flaunt naval exposure. Elsewhere, quintessential city-boy tailoring is fused with Miu-Miu-esque hipbone cut-outs and low-rise trousers alongside cropped jackets and shirts. The collection also explores what it means to be stolen and in an attempt to recreate the wardrobe of The Handmaid's Tale, SS23 sees hooded dresses and gowns featuring restricted arms and faces.

Developed alongside a striking color palette of cobalt blues, blood reds and acid yellows, the collection draws inspiration from comic book supervillains, essentially merging together all that is wrong with the world and making it right. Alongside the collection itself, SS23 sees Mowalola debut a new collaboration with New Balance, resulting in the Mowalola x New Balance 90/60. Set to launch in Fall 2022, the silhouette is designed with memories of "sweat-hazed dancefloors" and "days on the run," according to the press release.

Take a look at the collection in full above.

While you're here, check out the new COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus and Nike collaboration.