Alphonse Maitrepierre gleaned inspiration for spring from the 1970 Jacques Demy fantasy-comedy film “Peau d’Âne,” or “Donkey Skin.” “It’s just so crazy — like a fairy tale,” said Maitrepierre, who was taken by the movie’s “dreamy,” “powerful,” “poetic” aesthetic, including lots of color. He also loved its anachronistic vibe.
Similarly, Maitrepierre always tries to marry past and present sartorial elements. For spring 2023, his sustainable garments are a mash-up of 17th-century tailoring and streetwear, leading to unexpected, eye-catching silhouettes.
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Most dramatic were the opening and closing looks, starting with a flower-print body suit worn with a swirly puffer cape-like flourish and ending with a similarly voluminous white mantle sported over white shorts and a cropped shirt.
In between, floral prints abounded, as did solids, in the likes of pink or light blue.
Wide denim trousers with a wraparound fabric belt stretched mid-torso. A golden, flowing satin dress had a deep slit and oversized sleeves yet showed bared shoulders. A lot was thrown into this mix.
At the show Maitrepierre also unveiled a collaboration with Desigual, made up of 100 percent sustainable pieces, including bags and shoes. He was impressed by the Spanish brand’s archives (“magnificent, “super contemporary”) and its close relationship to nature.
Launch Gallery: MaitrePierre RTW Spring 2023