For Marie-Christine Statz, living in frenzied and frantic post-pandemic times called for a wardrobe with a steadying feel to it.
At first glance this certainly was a quiet lineup that made liberal use of the sharp tailoring that is the bedrock of the decade-old Parisian brand, with a ‘90s minimalist slant.
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Not all was placid in the Gauchere world, however, nor did she equate easy with basic. “I wanted to express a certain fragmentation between realities, a disjunction of information,” she said after the show.
Sticking to mostly long and lean proportions, the designer used raw edges, material contrasts and off-kilter fits — say, a too-wide waist that ended up perfect for tucking a sweater in — as shorthand for different realities telescoping not-quite-seamlessly. The result mostly gelled as Statz intended, save for the odd ungainly bulge on folded waistlines.
The season’s trousers were particularly well turned out, from a tailored take on sweatpants and tan cargo pants with pockets that added no bulk to a fluid straight-leg version with a gentle gather in lieu of a tuxedo stripe and slacks with a fold stitched down the leg to make them even more longline.
Backstage, Statz said she was developing accessories further for her line. Bags accompagied a number of looks and there was also a sunglass design, created in collaboration with French eyewear brand Ahlem.
Launch Gallery: Gauchère RTW Spring 2024
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