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The one fashion brand that just keeps getting better with age

Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023: much of it we’ve seen in various iterations many times before - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023: much of it we’ve seen in various iterations many times before - Dominique Charriau

Along the back wall of Chanel’s catwalk flickered the unmistakable black and white images from Last Year in Marienbad (l’Annee Dernière a Marienbad), the 1963 art house film you may or may not have nodded off during as a student.

Watching it several decades on (with the benefit of patience, maturity and gratitude for something that isn’t utterly frenetic) it’s so obviously a classic you feel bad about the snooze. If anything it has improved with age, not least the clothes, which were, of course, by Chanel. They’ve aged even better than Delphine Seyrig’s deep, side-parted bob.

Would anything on Chanel’s spring 2023 catwalk prove to have as much longevity as the cape dress Seyrig wears in one shot? Short answer, yes. Lots of it. That’s because much of it we’ve seen in various iterations many times before.

That’s not a criticism. The whole point of Chanel, arguably, is its oh so familiar codes. The tweed, the little (and long) black dresses, the quilted bags, the pearls and the dark tipped shoes – these are what those lengthy queues outside its boutiques in Paris, London and everywhere else are for. Yes queues. Where do people get their hands on the £4000 plus required for a Chanel handbag in the middle of a cost of living crisis? Or are they huddling there for warmth? Or status? Is The Queue about to become the emblem of our time?

Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Stephane Cardinale - Corbis
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Stephane Cardinale - Corbis

Naturally all those codes were out in force in this show – the French in general and Chanel in particular, tend not to mess with something if it’s not broken, including the block heeled sling backs Karl Lagerfeld reintroduced eight years ago. Clever them. At a time when folk want something that won’t date by next week, a shoe that’s been a bestseller, a shoe that you can actually walk, and at a pinch, run in ( in a season when silly, break-your-neck heels were back on some catwalks) is a no brainer.

But one must bring some newness to the table, else why buy yet another boucle jacket? Because this one was a cream and navy windowpane check blazer with combat style pockets. No room for yet more evening wear? How about if it’s the chicest slim, cropped jacket and matching slim midi skirt in a soft metallic raspberry, or a filmy maxi in antique gold chiffon.

I could go on and on about the pale yellow tweeds, the glittery ankle socks (they’re not classics, but Gen Z will love them).

Instead I’ve put together a checklist of How To Spot a Keeper, based on thoughts from this show:

  1. Do you love, LOVE, LOVE it?

  2. Does it suit you, flatter you, make you want to marry yourself?

  3. Does it work with at least 30 per cent of your existing wardrobe? If so, you’ll only regret it if you don’t like that 30 per cent

  4. Are you sure you don’t already own it? Important question. Pointless buying your 19th navy trousers

  5. Is it a micro trend (glittery socks), or a macro trend (a cocktail dress trimmed with feathers that will never grow old or a ridiculously desirable black beaded shirt and matching skirt?) Where would you wear them? Don’t be ridiculous. We’re dreaming the dream.


Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Dominique Charriau
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Estrop
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Estrop
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Estrop
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Estrop
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Estrop
Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 - Estrop