The five types of tinned tuna – and their labels explained

It’s the nation’s favourite tinned fish, but how much do we know about tuna? The United Nations declared Monday 2 May as World Tuna Day, to draw attention to the one-third of tuna stocks that are overfished.

Not so surprising, perhaps, given that one in five of us eats it at least once a week, and in 2020, Brits bought nearly 62,000 tonnes of tinned or jarred tuna in the supermarket, according to a recent report by fish sustainability organisation the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC).

Tins of tuna are a store-cupboard staple, a last-minute lunch or lazy supper. More recently, upmarket cans and jars from the continent have turned tuna into a treat worthy of a dinner-party starter. 

The good news is that the 2020 report by the Marine Conservation Society (MCS) pointed out that tinned fish, if caught sustainably, could be one of the most sustainable and healthy fish to eat. True, tuna is higher up the food chain than the other tinned favourites, such as sardines, pilchards and mackerel, which makes it more vulnerable to accumulating mercury contamination from the pollution in the seas. For this reason pregnant women are advised not to eat more than four tins a week –which is a lot of tuna- mayo sandwiches, let’s face it.

There are five main varieties of tuna eaten, ranging from the critically endangered bluefin, which can weigh more than 1,300lb, to skipjack, not a true tuna, weighing up to 77lb. In between come yellowfin, bigeye and albacore. Then there is the little bonito (not to be confused with bonito del norte, another name for albacore), which is sometimes substituted for tuna and weighs only around 13lb.

Yet despite this range, the vast bulk of the tins we sling in our trolley are marked simply ‘tuna’. Perhaps the manufacturers think we just don’t care, but as it turns out, all tuna is not equal, in flavour or the sustainability stakes.

Five tuna species to know

Bluefin tuna

This sometimes turns up in jars in posh delis labelled ‘tonno rosso’, an Italian name that refers to the dark-red flesh. It’s endangered, so off my shopping list, although there are cheering reports that bluefin stocks in the waters around the north-east of England are improving.

Albacore

Labelled ‘white tuna’ in the States, this has a mild flavour and meaty texture, and is considered by many to be the best tinned tuna. MSC-certified albacore is considered a top (dark green) choice by the MCS.

Bigeye tuna

Along with yellowfin, this is labelled as ‘light tuna’ in the States. It has more flavour than albacore, without being overpowering, and a higher fat content than yellowfin. The dark meat tastes much stronger than the paler flesh. Considered a vulnerable species by the World Wildlife Fund, it contains twice as much mercury as yellowfin tuna.

Yellowfin

This is sweet and mild flavoured, similar to bigeye, with a tendency towards dryness. MSC-certified yellowfin tuna gets a top green rating from the MCS, but much of the uncertified tuna including most that’s caught in the Indian Ocean is red – fish to avoid.

Skipjack

Amounting to 60 per cent of the world’s ‘tuna’ catch skipjack isn’t even a true tuna, but a different genus from the other four types of tuna – Katsuwonus rather than Thunnus. Skipjack has a more pronounced flavour than other varieties and a firm, dry texture. MSC-certified skipjack gets a top green rating from the MCS, but net-caught skipjack from the Pacific and Indian Oceans is a red, so ‘fish to avoid’.

What is in a tin of tuna?

If a can just says ‘tuna’ it’s probably skipjack, but could be other kinds of tuna ‘by-catch’ (other fish, caught accidentally), including bigeye and yellowfin. Look at the base of the can, where the species will be among the codes printed there. Multipacks make it difficult to see the variety until you’ve opened the wrapper.

Dolphin-friendly tuna

Dolphin-safe certifications vary but generally exclude fish caught with drift nets (particularly dangerous for dolphins) and limit other net fishing. Campaigners say that the labelling is worthless and vulnerable to fraud, and that fishing methods mean dolphins, as well as other species, are still harmed.

Which tinned tuna to buy?

Sainsbury’s Tuna Chunks in Brine (skipjack)

(£1.05 for 160g, Sainsburys)

Strongest flavour of all the tuna we tried, the only one apart from the Ortiz to have a fishy tang. Good, not too dry texture, the best of the brine/water tins.

Marks & Spencer Tuna Steak in Sunflower Oil (skipjack)

(£2 for 200g, Ocado)

The oil does soften that dry tinned tuna texture. Even texture, gently savoury flavour.

Princes Tuna Chunks in Brine (skipjack)

(£3.50 for 4 x 125g tins, Tesco - but also available in all major supermarkets)

Even pink with some browner patches. Mellow flavour, citrus hints and a dry texture.

John West Tuna Chunks in Brine (bigeye)

(£4 for 3 x 145g tins, Waitrose - but also available in all major supermarkets)

Mixture of dark, almost red, meat and lighter pieces. As with the Princes tuna, I could only identify the species by breaking the cardboard sleeve after purchase. Punchy flavour, with a hint of bitterness.

Ortiz Atun Claro in Olive Oil (yellowfin)

(£6.99 for 3 x 92g tins, Selfridges)

Savoury, with a distinctive flavour that’s the closest of the bunch to fresh tuna. Dark and light flesh, not too dry thanks to the oil.

This article is kept updated with the latest information.