The discount supermarket that is a playground for wine lovers

The rise of the discount stores continues apace. Aldi recently overtook Morrisons to take its place as one of the ‘big four’ and Lidl, too, is surging forward, overtaking Co-op this year to become the sixth-biggest grocer as its market share grew by 0.9 to 7 per cent.

So what of Lidl’s wines? Aldi’s regularly feature in this column. Lidl’s, as many irked correspondents have pointed out, are rarely seen. The reason is partly qualitative – Aldi’s range has more bright stars – and partly logistical.

Lidl’s range is divided into two sections. The core wines can be found on the shelf throughout the year. I recently tasted three dozen of these and a handful stood out.

Le Rocher de Saint Victor Picpoul de Pinet 2021 France (£6.99) is a decent example of this grape. Saline and innocuous, it would make a good first-glass-from-the-fridge (it would also be a good base for a Kir, if you’re in the market for that sort of thing, and I always am in autumn). Fans of medium-dry riesling might want to try Thörnicher St Michael Mosel Riesling 2021 Germany (£4.99).

In reds, I liked Corte alle Mura Chianti Riserva 2019 Italy (£5.99), which has a whiff of nutmeg, balsamic vinegar and dried cherries and would be great with a bowl of pasta in a tomato-based sauce. I also quite liked Agramont Old Vine Garnacha 2019 Navarra, Spain (£5.99), which is juicy and easygoing and tastes of red berries.

There’s also a brilliant Asti – Allini Asti Spumante 2021 Italy (£4.99) is a sparkling white from northern Italy that’s sweet like fresh grapes are sweet, actually tastes of grapes too, and smells of white blossom and nectarines. I’ll remind you about it later because it’s great with Christmas pudding and mince pies.

The second section of Lidl’s wine offering consists of a series of pop-ups. Every couple of months the buyers introduce a temporary range of themed wines, which they call ‘Tours’. These are bought in limited quantities and stay on sale until they run out a few weeks later. Regular themes for the tours include spring, Italian, summer, French and Christmas.

Lidl says the French and Italian themes are particularly popular with shoppers, ‘also the Christmas collection when people are looking to invest in something special for their Christmas table or gifting’.

The richest pickings are usually found amongst these tours but my early deadlines mean I have only a short window in which to tell you about them, which doesn’t always work out. Hence this column, dedicated to Lidl and stuffing in all the good bottles from its current tour, which launched on 29 September and whose theme is New World.

New Zealand sauvignon blanc drinkers will enjoy Outlook Bay Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2021 Marlborough, New Zealand (£11.99), a gloriously bright and pungently aromatic sauvignon blanc that is made for Lidl by Yealands and tastes of passion fruit, mangetout and blackcurrant leaf.

Its sibling, Outlook Bay Reserve Pinot Noir 2020 Marlborough, New Zealand (£9.99) is also worth trying. It would be good with duck roasted with colourful root veg, mushroom risotto or slow-roasted shoulder of pork (if anyone’s still putting the oven on for that long).

My first two wines of the week are from Lidl’s New World Tour and will be available while stocks last. I’m told lines usually sell out in four to six weeks. The last one is from the core range.

Try these...

Carménère Gran Reserva 2020 Rapel Valley, Chile

14.5%; Lidl, £7.49

A big red that tastes of raspberry and redcurrant jelly with black tea. I love to drink Chilean carménère with cottage pie.

Cariñena Monte Plogar Gran Reserva 2016, Spain

13.5%; Lidl, £4.99

Smoky oak is very much part of the style of this red, also reminiscent of figs and dried cranberries. Try it with sausage and bean casserole.

Vis à Vis Shiraz-Mourvèdre 2020 Coastal Region, South Africa

14.5%; Lidl, £7.99

A beautifully structured red made from two grapes often blended in the Rhône. Think dark berry fruit and a gentle undertow of cedary oak.

Read last week's column: There's much more to Argentinian wine than malbec