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This critic’s book expertly introduces us to Sacramento’s wineries, both vintage and new

Mike Dunne has spent 50 years tasting his way through greater Sacramento’s wineries. Retired and bored during the pandemic, he decided to write a book to it.

“The Signature Wines of Superior California” is Dunne’s 348-page, self-published paperback guide to the region’s essential wines, wineries and wine regions.

Encompassing Lodi, the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, the Sierra Nevada foothills and Yolo County’s Dunnigan Hills, it not only tells readers what to drink but paints a picture of the scene surrounding California’s capital. Dunne identifies the region’s 50 essential wines and tells the story of each, from a unique white in Loomis to Shiraz grown along the Mokelumne River.

Longtime readers of The Bee’s Food & Drink section should recognize Dunne’s name. He was The Bee’s restaurant critic, wine columnist and food editor from 1978 up until his retirement in 2008, and previously covered Ground Zero of the foothills’ wine scene for the Amador Dispatch (now the Ledger Dispatch).

Mike Dunne, former dining and wine critic for The Sacramento Bee, has published “The Signature Wines of Superior California” a 348-page guide to the region’s wines, wineries and wine regions.
Mike Dunne, former dining and wine critic for The Sacramento Bee, has published “The Signature Wines of Superior California” a 348-page guide to the region’s wines, wineries and wine regions.

The greater Sacramento wine scene gets a fraction of the attention lavished on the North Bay Area, but it has gems throughout and tends to be less expensive than those counties. “The Signature Wines of Superior California” gives these historic wineries their due, dedicating ample ink to unsung grapes such as Chenin blanc and zinfandel.

“With wine publications, their ... focus is mainly on Napa, Sonoma, Paso Robles, Santa Barbera when it comes to California wines,” Dunne said in a phone interview. “There’ll be a chapter near the end that’ll be shorter than the others, that’ll be about the Sierra foothills, that’ll be about Lodi. I just hope my book brings more attention to these areas.”

Each chapter is full of recommendations — if you’re around Placerville, try these 10 wineries, Dunne says — as well as history lessons and explainers on grape trends old and new. It’s a contemporary guide and includes newer wineries such as Markus Wine Co. outside of Lodi, but Dunne’s half-century of beat knowledge is really what makes this book stand out.

“The Signature Wines of Superior California” retails for $24.95 and is available at local bookstores such as Time Tested Books, Capital Books and Avid Reader, or in print or e-reader version on Amazon. You can also snag a copy while picking up wine from Ro Sham Beaux, Corti Bros. (owner Darrell Corti wrote the intro) or a broad list of area wineries detailed on Dunne’s website.

The author will host a book signing Sunday from 11 a.m.-4 p.m. at Yorba Wines’ tasting room in Sutter Creek.

What I’m Eating

Juno’s Kitchen & Delicatessen makes a great kale Caesar salad.
Juno’s Kitchen & Delicatessen makes a great kale Caesar salad.

Juno’s Kitchen & Delicatessen is as cute as to-go restaurants get. Mark Helms and Susan Vasques bake sourdough daily in the couple’s 12-year-old sandwich shop named after their bull terrier/pit bull mix, whose grinning face shines down in 4-by-6 family photos hung around the 1,000-square-foot space.

It’s a beloved East Sacramento hole-in-the-wall, and one of the best sandwich spots anywhere in the city. Helms, the founding chef/owner of now-closed Ravenous Cafe in Greenhaven, has a knack for thinking creatively and melding flavors together wonderfully.

Juno’s has all the pastramis and salamis of a traditional deli (Vasques even gave my parents’ yappy dogs a few slices of the latter), but great meatless sandwiches as well. As an omnivore, I’d happily order the vegan sandwich ($14.50) again.

Instead of trying to create a meat substitute, Helms let sliced portobello mushrooms shine with caramelized onions, roasted red peppers, a white truffle spread and a balsamic reduction.

The panko-encrusted eggplant sandwich ($14) had some of the same vegetables, plus Manchego cheese and zingy basil aioli. Each sandwich order comes with the choice of herby roasted potato rings vs. a mixed green salad.

Juno’s has pan dishes, too, such as a rich chicken pasta ($18) that paired translucent tagliatelle from San Francisco-based Dolce Italia Foods with bacon, button mushrooms and arugula. Adding anchovies to Caesar salads is always a matter of debate; Juno’s bright kale Caesar ($12.75, plus another $3.50 for grilled chicken or $6 for shrimp) removes that choice by mixing anchovy paste into the vinaigrette.

Juno’s Kitchen & Delicatessen

Address: 3675 J St., Sacramento.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday or until sold out.

Phone number: (916) 456-4522.

Website: https://junoskitchen.com

Drinks: Sodas and sparkling water.

Animal-free options: Several sandwiches.

Noise level: Moderate when ordering; no seating indoors.

Openings & Closings

  • French-inspired cafe and pâtisserie Cafe 33 just opened in Arden Arcade at 1840 Fulton Ave. Look for croissants, cookies, cakes and other treats in addition to Peet’s Coffee and savory items such as turkey sandwiches.

  • Dog Haus Biergarten bounded into Roseville last Friday, opening at 1501 Blue Oaks Blvd. The spruced-up hot dog chain and beer bar first opened in Pasadena in 2010; this is its first Sacramento-area location.

  • Nekter Juice Bar will hold its Elk Grove store’s grand opening Saturday at 7450 Elk Grove Blvd., Suite 120. It’s the sixth area location for the smoothie and acai bowl chain.

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