Bonjour, Paris! Or should that be bonne nuit? Alexandre Mattiussi‘s fall show was inspired by apartment-block neighbors going about their business at the break of day.
He showed once again at the Tennis Club de Paris in the 16th arrondissement, transforming the vast space with a grand building facade, and turned the runway into a series of streets where all sorts of characters — night owls, office workers and early risers dashing out for a café and croissant — came and went.
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Looking chic at that hour is no easy task, but Mattiussi managed it. He sent out men and women, young and old, anonymous and famous — Diane Kruger, Lou Doillon and Laetitia Casta all took part — in a lineup of mostly tailored clothing with luxe touches and dollops of sparkle.
A clutch of “Belle de Jour” types wore belted wool trenches paired with tall, chunky-heel boots, or swingy, double-breasted coats dotted with domed gold buttons.
Men’s tailoring was soft and laid-back with luxed-up workwear styles, including a roomy navy jacket with patch pockets. One model sported a denim shirt — with a tie — blue jeans and a tailored topcoat.
For the bohemians on the block, there was a fuzzy vest top and a trench with giant fur sleeves and vintage feel. Those with punk leanings could choose from a lineup of combat boots and long, roomy coats with fur collars and a military edge.
Eveningwear was cozy, and sparkled plenty. Mattiussi paired an off-the-shoulder black minidress, and a flapper-ish sequin slipdress, with thick, wooly tights and tall, chunky-heel boots to keep out the cold.
It was a clever way to showcase a quiet luxury collection, and a great chance for the audience to be nosy neighbors, wondering where everyone was headed, or what they were really wearing under those tightly belted trenches.
Launch Gallery: AMI RTW Fall 2024
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