5 trends we spotted at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS23

·3 min read
 (CPFW)
(CPFW)

Despite soaring temperatures, the dreaded end of summer is pulling into sight.

For anyone suffering the early onset back-to-school blues, Copenhagen Fashion Week’s SS23 shows, which came to a close on Friday, were awash with inspo on the trends we’ll all be lusting after next summer (and for anyone organised, what to shop in this season’s sales), and the styling tricks to keep ‘fits on point.

A noughties revival dominated, tempting even designers that typically offer more sophisticated wardrobe options into the realms of massive baggy cargo pants (which were everywhere), crop tops and bombers. But among the slew of Gen Z-centric silhouettes came some fresh and fun themes – read on for the summer ’23 trends to bookmark now.

1. The corsage comeback

Gestuz (James Cochrane)
Gestuz (James Cochrane)

Cool girl corsages were in full bloom on the runways in Copenhagen this season, where large floral brooches and neckties gave looks a subtle Sex and the City feel. In a collection inspired by early 2000s pictures of H.R.H. Crown Princess Mary of Denmark, homegrown label Saks Potts adorned bags, skinny scarves, upper arm wristbands and strapless tops with gold leather roses – a tribute to the rose the crown princess has named after her. Over at Gestuz, vast chin-obscuring roses in lime green, neon orange and silver made for dramatic additions to skinny neckties, while The Garment added a touch of femininity to its timeless, tomboyish tailoring via dainty rosebud boutonnières in black and white.

The Garment (James Cochrane)
The Garment (James Cochrane)
Saks Potts (James Cochrane)
Saks Potts (James Cochrane)
Saks Potts (James Cochrane)
Saks Potts (James Cochrane)
The Garment (James Cochrane)
The Garment (James Cochrane)

2. Pointy knee-high boots

Operasport (James Cochrane)
Operasport (James Cochrane)

The stud and zip-adorned spiky Cagole boots Balenciaga released as part of its summer 22 collection have become a stealth hit among London’s fashion insiders, and the runways in Copenhagen further cemented pointy-toed, knee-high stiletto boots of the sort loved by Shania Twain and Anastasia as next summer’s silhouette. Gestuz founder Sanne Sehested sourced original Y2K vintage boots from around the world to pair with her early aughts-inflected collection. For its debut runway show, Danish label Operasport paired pointy suede knee high boots with leather midi skirts and halternecks, and tie-front cutout dresses. Wear from winter right through to summer and pair with a denim midi skirt and fringed leather belt for ultimate Y2K points.

Gestuz (James Cochrane)
Gestuz (James Cochrane)

3. The naked dress

Ganni (James Cochrane)
Ganni (James Cochrane)

Bare-all dressing has been popular on red carpets and among Love Islanders for some time now, but for summer ‘23 the naked dress is set to become establishment. At Stine Goya, Ganni and Samsoe Samsoe, crystal-embellished mesh midis had firm festival appeal, while conceptual knitwear specialist Amalie Røge Hove proved the pulling power of slick knits, with gossamer-light nip-flashing woven woollies that oozed unabashed sexiness. Big black granny pants are your new best friend.

A. Roege Hove (James Cochrane)
A. Roege Hove (James Cochrane)
Stine Goya (James Cochrane)
Stine Goya (James Cochrane)
D(i)vision (James Cochrane)
D(i)vision (James Cochrane)

4. The bigger-than-you bag

Samsoe Samsoe (CPFW)
Samsoe Samsoe (CPFW)

Wondering which beach bag you’ll be adding to basket next summer? Whatever you’re thinking quadruple it, for massive totes reigned supreme on the SS23 runways in Copenhagen. At Samsoe Samsoe and Stine Goya large squidgy holdalls in cotton and satin were carried under arm, while at Aeron big knitted and crochet totes came so vast as to be floor-skimming. In her first collection as creative director of Lovechild 1979, Mia Kaapelgaard supersized the humble shopping bag in purple nylon and deckchair stripes.

Aeron (James Cochrane)
Aeron (James Cochrane)
Stine Goya (James Cochrane)
Stine Goya (James Cochrane)

5. Dresses over trousers

Opera Sport (James Cochrane)
Opera Sport (James Cochrane)

In case you hadn’t noticed there’s a noughties revival happening in our wardrobes, and just as cargo pants and crop tops have reappeared will full vengeance, so too have some of the era’s more unusual styling tricks. Not only did the Copenhagen runways recommend we pin a corsage to our halternecks next summer, but everyone from Lovechild 1979 to Saks Potts and Mark Kenly Domino Tan made the case for slipping on a pair of trousers with your favourite dress. Perhaps Trinny and Suzannah were right all along.

Saks Potts (James Cochrane)
Saks Potts (James Cochrane)
Mark Kenly Domino Tan (James Cochrane)
Mark Kenly Domino Tan (James Cochrane)