“Nighthawks” took flight as 032c made its Paris runway debut under the soaring arches of a disused church on Rue Saint-Honoré with an almost reverent air. The palette was somber, mostly in black, midnight blue and an inky wine; the silhouette sleek and slinky.
Berlin-based creative director Maria Koch opened an atelier last year to work closely with her own patternmakers and seamstresses and it showed. There were traces of the oversized slouchiness she has played with in past seasons, particularly on coats that were dropped not only at the shoulder but at the waist too, belted below the hip, but mostly she has tightened the shapes.
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She retained the nylon-coated bombers present in past collections. This season they were a voluminous antidote to slim-cut trousers with stiffness and structure that kept them far from sportswear territory.
Gone were the overt marks of its branded merch, too; instead, she playfully subverted logo mania by rendering the 032c backward on a fuzzy knit cardigan, or her “Nighthawks” emblem, which resembles a ‘70s rock band patch, in mini print on the back of a pant calf.
Sequined, slinky column dresses were cut to the millimeter for eveningwear and certainly bucked the trend of body inclusivity, but displayed her attention to detail. A glossy skirt suit with structured shoulders was a sharp counterpoint and though trains on minidresses were a fun flare, they missed the mark for functionality.
All the glamour added to 032c signature elements, but Koch showed a continued evolution from the brand’s streetwear roots.
Launch Gallery: 032c RTW Fall 2024
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